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if you head for Koukaki, one of the cocktails and microbrews inside the fash-
most rapidly-evolving pockets of central ionable drinking dens of Kolokotroni and
Athens, wedged between the ancient glo- Praxitelous streets - nexus of the capital’s
ry of the Acropolis hill and the rumbling sophisticated bar action - or going full
traffic of Syngrou Avenue. Cool Koukaki Greek cliché and dancing on the tables at a
combines intimacy with authenticity. bouzouki club, Athens has all the ingredi-
ents for a great (and very long) night out.
Take your pick from trendy bars and
hip street eats, to fiery ethnic cuisine or The next morning
family-run tavernas. You’ll be dining along- We wouldn’t dream of sending you on
side locals and clued-up tourists like you. your way without witnessing this famous
Athenian ritual that hasn’t changed since
Bedtime? Forget it. Athenians are just 1868. Every hour, on the hour, the chang-
getting started for the evening. Wheth- ing of the Presidential guard takes place
er you’re in the mood for sinking crafty outside Parliament on Syntagma Square.

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