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feine at TAF (The Art Foundation), an Ot- touristy but irresistibly quaint tavernas.
toman dwelling re-booted as a fashionable
gallery and courtyard café, with a brilliant Evening
Greek design emporium thrown into the Athens’ legendary sunsets signal that
mix. it’s cocktail hour. Drink in the city’s red-
hot cocktail scene at a rooftop bar tucked
For sophisticated souvenirs and edible high above the narrow streets around
gifts, hand-made sandals and accessories, Syntagma and Monastiraki (look up; you’ll
hit Adrianou Street, the main shopping find them all around you!). Or jump in the
street in the old town of Plaka. Or simply cable car and whizz up to the summit of
amble along Plaka’s twisting, pastel-co- Lycabettus Hill, the city’s highest peak
loured lanes with no other agenda than and a classic spot for sunset selfies.
to watch the Acropolis play hide and seek
between the Byzantine churches, neoclas- Athenians eat late (never before 9 pm),
sical mansions, whitewashed cottages, and so follow their lead. You won’t go wrong

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